2

会津地方では、昔から、盆地の北に大きく横たわる飯豊山への一泊二日の登山が青年たちによって行われてきた。夏になると、一ノ木の集落から黒森山を経て塩竈神社を通り飯豊山に至る古くからの修験道の道を、若者たちは青年戒、成人社会への加入儀式として歩いた。
これから語ろうとする旅は、明らかに私達親子にとってのイニシエーション儀礼だったと思えるのである。

豪雨の中の出発

ロータン峠越え

7月中旬にインドに入国して、酷暑の中、大汗をかきながら、1週間かけて北インドのヒマチャル・プラデシュ州（Himachal Pradesh）のマナリ（Manali）まで来た私たち親子をモンスーンの雨雲が待ち構えていた。パンジャブ州（Punjab）からマナリに入る道も、増水した川水で何度も洗われ、私達の車は大穴や溜まった砂を避けながら、緑の濃い川沿いの道路を進む。マナリに到着した日には、大ヒマラヤ山脈の最初の難関、ロータン峠（Rohtang Pass, 3,978m）のトンネル工事現場で土石流が発生し、作業員が数名死亡し、マナリ-レー道路はそこかしこで土砂崩れのため寸断されているというニュースも入ってきた。私たちはここからバスで二日かけて、大ヒマラヤ山脈の南側面を登り、一旦キーロン（Keylong）のテントシティーで宿泊し、ザンスカール川（Zanskar River）の上流地帯を経て、更に標高5300メートルのティングリン峠（Tingling La）を越え、インダス川（Indus River）の上流からレーの町に入る計画である。

出発の2日前あたりから断続的に降っていた雨は、出発の当日には本格的な豪雨に変わり、川は数日前の光が煌めく清流と違って、濃い茶色の濁流で膨れあがっている。その雨の中を、HPTDC(Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation)という公共事業体が運営する、全席予約制リクライニングシート装備エアコン無しという20年前のデラックスバス（現在の最新バスはボルボコーチというエアコン付き）は、ほぼ満員の乗客を乗せて出発した。乗客はバスの前方の三分の一の座席をインド人観光客の若者たちが、バスの後部三分の一を韓国人と日本人の東アジア勢が、そして彼らに挟まれるようにして我々親子とヨーロッパからの中年カップル中心の観光客が占めている。前の方はヒンドゥー語で、おしりの方は韓国人の観光客は日本語ができるのか日本語が、そして真ん中は英語が共通語として、会話が交わされている。

　

Figure 2: 道路にはそこかしこから水流が流れこむ　　　　

 

Figure 3：滝が幾筋も流れ落ちる崖

前日から気象警報が発令されている悪天候を押しての旅だが、問題はロータン峠（Rohtang Pass）にかけての大傾斜地帯、大ヒマラヤ山脈の最初の難関。この峠を境にモンスーン気候と別れて、ヒマラヤ高地の気候となる。しかし、連日の雨と先日の土石流で、道路はあちこち寸断され、応急の補修はされているが、いつ崩れても不思議はないということである。　　
   

Figure 5：出発はいつのことやら

バスに比べると小さなジープやマイクロバスは、警笛を鳴らし続けながら、どんどんバスを追い越して進んでいくが、我々のバスは泥田のような道路を、大シケの時の船のように車体を左右に大きく揺らせて、エンジン音を響かせながら、ゆっくり高度を稼いでいく。山はいたるところで大小の滝が流れ落ちている。道路にも流れ込んだ水が渦巻いている。マナリ-レー道路は大ヒマラヤ山脈を貫く幹線道路でありながら、上から大型車が来ると、すれ違いは肝を冷やすような狭さで、運転手たちは互いに確認しながら慎重にすれ違っていく。すれ違いの際に道路の状態の情報交換のため、窓を開けて、声を掛けあっている。

ロータン峠の手前の最後の休憩地で、運転手は大休止を宣言し、もし、このまま状況が好転しないなら、マナリにもどるという。それは困る。宿の手配なんて、一体どうするのか。雨は降り止まず、気温が下がってきたためか霧も深くなり、しかも夕闇が迫ってきた。こりゃダメかなと思っていると、車掌が「We will go!（出発しまーす）」と声をかけている。危険をある程度覚悟しての出発となったようだ。深いぬかるみのつづら折りを、バスはゆっくり登り始めた。　　

大揺れの車内は概して静寂が支配していて、スレ違いや停止のたびにホーとかウーとかため息が聞こえるだけだ。元気なのは写真家たちだけで、彼らは窓にへばりついて次々に現れる白い滝や濁流の渓谷、窓に迫る巨岩の崖など車外の風景を追いかけている。灰色のセメント細工のような雪渓も雨水に刻まれて大きく凹んでいる。露で曇ったバスの窓から、突如、霧の中に雪山の稜線が見えてきた。バスはやっと峠を超えつつあるらしい。次第に霧が薄らいで、山容がはっきりしてくると同時に、雨も上がってきた。大ヒマラヤの南斜面を這い昇ってきたバスがやっと高原地帯に到着したというわけだ。

Figure 6:下から登ってくるバスが見える　

Figure 7:　初めて雪山が見えた

　

Figure 8：モンスーンの雲に覆われた大ヒマラヤ山脈の山並み

大高原地帯

大ヒマラヤ山脈の中、スピティ(Spiti)からザンスカール山塊、チベットに続くルプシュ（Rupsh）の高原地帯側には、ヒマラヤ南面のような森林はもうなく、様々な形の岩や砂の色が映える裸の斜面があるだけだ。僅かな高山植物や地衣類などしか生えていない赤茶色や薄緑の斑模様の斜面と、雪や氷河で飾られた険しい岩肌の山頂部。景色は明らかに異質の気候を反映させている。ところどころに花の群生があるのを見ると、水分は朝露か霧か何かの形で補給されるのだろう。高原地帯と言っても平らなわけではなく、急峻な山の斜面を相変わらず這い回ってバスは進んでいく。

雨は完全に上がって、道路は工事現場のように砂埃で覆われ、バスの移動した後にはその砂埃が舞い上がる。その砂埃の雲を引きずりながら、最初の宿泊地、キーロンを目指す。道路脇には、ところどころに白いチョルテン（高さ2～3メートルほどの小型ストゥーパ・仏舎利塔）が現れだした。この高原地帯に住む放牧民チャンパ（Chang-pa）の人たちのものである。車が人々の移動の中心手段になっても、彼らは相変わらずここを馬や羊や山羊を追って歩いている。カシミヤ織の最高級品の原料であるパシュミナ・ウール（Pashm）はチャンタン地方の特産品で、この地域の山羊（Chang Thang goat）のお腹の毛から取れる。

　
標高が少し低い谷の中にバスが入ると、底を流れる川近くの斜面に区画を切るように人工的な線が現れだした。目を凝らすと、石垣で囲った耕地だ。じゃがいもが植わっている。豆のような作物も植わっている。花が咲いているのがわかる。かなり大きな畝もある。その周りに小さな石造りの平屋建て。集落も現れだした。2階建ての大きな家が10軒ほど、数本のポプラらしい木立と石垣で境をした緑色の耕地に囲まれて建っている。電柱が見えないところからすると、電気は来ていないのかも知れない。耕地は、畝のかたちがとてもランダムで美しい。機械を使っていないことが畝の形や大きさから想像できる。手作業でやるとかなり大変そうな大きさの畝もある。人影がないが、子供はいるんだろうか。学校はどうするんだろう。じゃがいもの発育だけを心にかけて、夢のように生きているんだろうか。谷の上の斜面からの土砂崩れで放棄された耕地もある。でも、集落の周りはしっかり手入れされているらしい緑濃い畑が続いている。　
　
　

Figure 9：山間のじゃがいも畑　　　　　　　　　　　

 

Figure 10：初めて現れた集落　

夕闇が迫って、薄暗がりになった道を、ヘッドライトも付けないでバスは走り続ける。道は相変わらずの凸凹、ジグザグで、運転手はよく見えるものだと感心しているうちに、今夜の宿泊地キーロン（Keylong）に到着した。ここではテントが準備されていて、その中の簡易ベッドで朝3時まで休憩し、4時には出発ということである。テントの数は十分あり、私たち親子は一つのテントで、同宿者もなく、ゆっくり休んだ。

　　
Figure 11: チョルテンが現れる　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

 

Figure 12：キーロンのテントシティー

２日目

ザンスカール川上流地域
暗い中を起きだして、バスに乗り込む。星空の様子から、今日は良い天気に恵まれたことがわかる。順調に行けば、今日は夕方にはレーに着くはず。午前中は予想通りの順調な、そして退屈な旅となった。風景は昨日と同じ砂漠と急峻な岩山と深い渓谷。時折、緑のパッチや花が咲いている山の斜面を登ったり谷に降りたり、氷河に飾られた山塊が現れると、その周りを迂回したり、相変わらず埃を巻き上げながら進む。強い日光で空調無しの車内は温められ、蒸し暑くさえなって来た。しかし、巻き上がった埃のため、窓は開けらない。

時折、インド軍の長い車列に遭遇することもあるが、ほとんどの通行人は、物資運搬の大型トラックと観光客を載せたジープだ。お昼を回ったところで、ダルチャ（Darcha）という休憩地に着いた。ここには警察の検問所があって、ここからの通行を止めていた。この先で大きな土砂崩れがあり、大型車は通行できないとのこと。現在復旧作業中だが、今日中に開通するかどうか分からないというのだ。早く復旧することを願って、ひたすら待つ事になった。

　
　

Figure 13：インド軍の長い車列　　　　　　　　　　　

 

Figure 14：急勾配の斜面を下るトラックと我々のバス

ここはザンスカール川の源流地帯の東側、大ヒマラヤ山脈とザンスカール山塊が分離を始める一帯で、標高6000メートルを超える山々が皺のように連なっている地域である。この休憩地も4000メートル前後の高さだ。道路の北側は平坦な土地が少しあり、その先は崖になっていて、ザンスカール川の支流が30メートルほど下を流れている。岩肌の色具合の変化や道路脇の麦の親類らしい植物などに気を取られているうち、息子がいないのに気が付いた。周りを見渡すと、道路脇の山側の急斜面の上に登って高みから谷を見下ろしている。私も同じ所に行こうとしたが、急峻な斜面を登るのに一苦労。高山病がそろそろ心配になりはじめる。息を弾ませながら、草が固まって生えて座布団のような塊になっている間の土の部分を、数歩登っては休む事を繰り返しながら、ゆっくり登るしかない。草が固まって生えるのは、互いに支えあって激しい風や雪解け水などで流されるのを防いでいるせいだと思われる。単独で生えた芽は育たないのだろう。一歩がとても重く、頭の中の血管が膨れあがって、ドクドク音をたてているようだ。息子はというと、更に上に登って行く。

午後の強い日差しの中、3時間ほど経ったが、検問所は開く気配もない。検問の警察官も道路脇のテントの中に入り込み、誰も外にいない。通行禁止の表示は、テントの反対側の道路端の杭に一端が結ばれ、道路上1メートルほどの中空に渡した、赤い布片を一枚真ん中から垂らしたロープ一本である。そのロープのもう一端が警察官のいるテントの中に引き込まれている。ジープなどの通行可能な車両が来ると、引きこまれているロープが緩められて、道路に落ちる。そのロープを踏んで、ジープは通過していく。ジープが去ると、テントの中にロープが引かれ、再び赤い布片が道路上に垂れ下がりる。。その間、警察官は誰もテントから出てこない。

強烈な直射日光の下、警察のテントと物憂げに張られた通行禁止のロープ以外、数軒の休憩所のテント、チョルテンがひとつと手押しポンプの井戸がひとつあるだけである。たまに通るジープなどのエンジン音以外、物音はあまりしない。物憂げな空気の中、カラスが一羽飛んできて、チョルテンの上の竿にとまろうとしている。しかし、竿の先端が尖すぎるのか、うまく安定してとまれないらしく、すぐ羽ばたいて姿勢を変えようとする。何度も繰り返していたが、数回高く鳴き声を立てると、諦めたのか山の方に飛んでいってしまった。またもや物音が途絶える。強い陽射は相変わらずだが、気温は余り揚がらない。しかし、その陽射に晒されていると、肌の下まで放射線に舐められて、道路に映る自分の影のなかに、骨格が透けて見えているようだ。

そのあたりを何度もめぐって時間を潰していた乗客たちが、ぞろぞろバスに戻り始めた。どうも、出発するらしい。でも道路が開通したわけではないという。車掌がきて、乗客達に説明するところを聞くと、ザンスカール川の上流に80キロほど迂回して、土砂崩れの箇所を避け、また、マナリ-レー道路に戻るという話である。しかし、このままではレーには今日中に辿りつけないので、サルチュ（Sarchu）という休憩地でもう一泊し、レー到着は明日のお昼頃ということだった。

　　
　　

Figure 15：ザンスカール川上流　　　　　　　　　

 

Figure 16：休憩所

迂回して、もう一泊

この迂回路だが、ダルチャから北に、ザンスカールの中心地であるカルシャ（Karsha）方面にむかい、途中カルギャグ（Kargyag）辺りから東南に転じ、標高5000メートル前後の峠をいくつか経てサルチュ（Sarchu）に抜けるという、普段は大型車両はあまり通らない裏道である。図らずして、ザンスカールの一番奥の地域に入り込むわけだ。そのあたりは1979年に佐藤健さんたちが大変苦労して踏査された辺りに近く（佐藤 1981）、佐藤さんの著書を愛読していた私には感慨深いものがあった。

例によって、夕暮れの薄闇の中を、ヘッドライトも点けずにかなりの時間を走った後、サルチュに到着したのは午後8時を回っていたと思う。バスの周りに、休憩所のテントがいくつか見える。今晩は自前で宿泊するということで、早速その一つを訪れ、宿泊場所の確保をする。幸い、簡易ベッドは無いが泊まれるテントが裏にあるということで、そこに荷物を運び込んで就寝準備。二人で100ルピーだった。

サルチュは標高が4200メートル。荷物を運んだり整理したり、ゴソゴソ動いているうちに、私はだんだん頭痛がひどくなり、吐き気までしてきた。夕食はその休憩所で食べるのだが、注文したTukpaというヌードルスープ（実はスープを吸って伸びきった2センチくらいの長さにちょんぎられたインスタントラーメン）も、匂いが鼻につき、一口食べると吐き気を催して、残りを食べる気力もなくなっていた。典型的な高山病だ。息子はと言うと、平気でヌードルをどんどん平らげている。私は食べることは諦めて、マサラティー（といってもミルクティーだが）だけ飲んでテントに戻ることにした。休憩所の外に出ると、空一面の星空だ。その中でも銀河が一際煌々と輝いている。見慣れた星座も幾つか認識できるが、光の壁のように密度が濃い銀河を前にして、全く知らない宇宙を初めて見ているような気がした。その空間は、世界が初めて聞く音楽で満たされているように感じられた。

３日目

ティングリン峠へ

朝、目を覚ますと、同じテントの中で、二人の中年男性が自分達の寝具を片付けたところで、仏教徒らしく、一人はvarada印（施無畏印の一部）を結んで暝想し、もう一人は目をつむってマントラを唱えている。衣類からするとラマ僧ではなさそう。酸欠の頭で思い起こすと、昨夜遅くなってから、同宿をお願いしますと頼まれて承諾したことが、うっすらと思い出された。ともかく、息子を起こして、洗面のためにテントの外に出た。首が真っ直ぐなのか傾いているのか認識できず、目は地面との距離が測れないようだし、真っ直ぐ歩くのに努力を要するなど、高山病は全く治っていないようだ。手押しポンプで水を汲み、洗面をしていると、朝日が登り出した。海抜4000メートルの朝日、空気も薄く、塵もなく、太陽光は遮られるものも無く、真っ直ぐここに届くようだ。
　　
　

Figure 17：海抜4000メートルの夜明け　　　　　　　　　　　

 

Figure 18：ポンプ式の井戸で洗面

テントに戻ると、二人の同宿者は朝の勤行も終わって、座って話をしている。私たちも自己紹介をした。彼らはレーでの会議に参加するジャンム＆カシミール州のお役人だそうだ。インドではお役人は威張りちらしているものとばかり思っていた私には、このニコニコしながら話をする二人の仏教徒のお役人は大変な驚きだった。ラダックでは仏教徒は日常どのように宗教行為をするのか興味がある私は、印を結んで暝想したりマントラを唱えての朝の勤行に新鮮な思いがした。
　
Figure 19：まばらに咲く高山植物　　　　　　　　　　

　

Figure 20：青いビニールシートは世界共通

さて、これから標高5000メートルを超える峠をいくつか越えて、インダス川の上流にむかい、そこからインダス川の谷を下って目的地レーに入る。あと半日ほどの行程だ。

バスは相変わらずのペースで進んでいくが、私は頭痛が激しいので、姿勢をいろいろ変えたり、水を飲んだり、苦しんでいると、通路をはさんだ向こうに座っている、私と同年輩のウィーンから来た女性が、高山病の薬があるけど飲むかと尋ねてくれた。私としては早く体を高地に慣れさせないといけないと思っていたので、感謝したけれど、断った。この女性は、去年もラダックに来たのだそうで、ラダックでボランティア活動をするという。今年はヨーロッパの友人たちと寄付された古着を運んできているんだということだった。その配布が主な仕事らしい。でも、どの慈善団体にも属さないで、自分たちだけで楽しみながらやってるという感じで、慈善臭さが全くない。去年は洪水の時に居合わせて、大変な惨事を目撃し、災害復旧支援にも参加したと言っていた。

　
Figure 21：峠にあるお堂　　　　　　　　　　　　　

 

Figure 22：峠の標識　17582 フィート = 5359メートル

本日の最高地点である標高5359メートルのティングリン（タングランとも発音するらしく、地図によって表記が違う。ラダック語は村ごとにかなり発音が違うということだ。）峠に到着し、休憩である。峠には標高を記した標識が立っている。峠の神様を祀るお堂もある。経文を刷り込んだ色とりどりの小布片を軍艦の旗飾のように結んだ綱が、お堂の屋根から四方八方に伸びている。その経文の旗が強い風を切るように音を立てている。

休憩と言っても、私は頭は朦朧、目はしょぼしょぼ、息子に従ってうろうろと歩くだけで息が上がってくる。写真を何枚か撮った記憶はあるが、さだかではない。荷物を背負わせた馬とロバの群れを追って行くチャンパ（Changpa）の遊牧民の姿と「ギャラレーギャラロー」という峠の神様に祈る彼らの歌声を聞いたような気もするけれど、それも夢かもしれない。早々とバスに戻って寝てしまった。やがて出発。あと数時間でレーだ。

インダス川の渓谷

暫く行くと、広い河川敷を持つインダス川の谷に入った。両側の山も切り立った崖というより丘陵に近く、河川敷の一部は耕地や集落が占めているところもある。レーまでこの谷を下って行くのだが、昨年の洪水と土石流の痕がそこかしこに見える集落を幾つか通過した。崩れた石垣、土砂で埋まった家、腹の部分を抉り取られたり塗った色が剥げ落ち土色に変わったチョルテン、根こそぎ倒された楊の木の列。一方、復旧も進んでいるようで、建築中の家々も見えたし、畑では大麦が緑の穂を見せている。

Figure 23:　洪水の爪痕が生々しい

道路の補修もいたるところで行われ、ネパーリ（ネパールからの季節労働者）やビハーリ（ビハール州からの季節労働者）など多数の季節労働者たちが石を刻んだり運んだりしている。男たちは草履にズボンとシャツ一枚で、石垣用の石を抱えて運んだり、積んだりしている。女たちは民族衣装にショールで目だけだして頭を包み、土埃の中、ハンマーで花崗岩の塊を砕いたり、スコップの首につけた紐を引いて、男がスコップで掻き取る砂利の量を増やす手伝いをしている。大型重機も動いていたが、運転手は上着を着て、ヘルメットを被っており、明らかに季節労働者とは違う。

Figure 24:　復旧作業は続くが、麦はもう穂が出ている 

更に谷を下って行くと、インダス川の河川敷の幅が大きく広がり、道路際のポプラや楊の数も増え、緑も次第に濃くなって来た。道を行く車の数や種類も増え、タクシー等も見え出した。まもなくレーだ。


レーの町

商店の続く町筋

3日目に到着したレーの町は、土埃と牛糞と外国人観光客があふれ、牛たちとタクシーが狭い道を占領し、頻繁に鳴らされる車の警笛とともに、モスクからのアザーン（イスラム教の祈祷を促す呼び声）の声が劣悪な拡声器から突如響き渡る騒々しい町だった。これから5週間このあたりに滞在するのだ。

Figure 25: レーの南に広がるザンスカール山塊

 

Figure 26: レー旧市街の王宮とモスク

　
レーの町は古くからの王城がある東ラダックの中心である。王城の下のバザールを中心とする旧市街と、その南に広がるインド軍の駐屯地と空港の周りに広がる新興の商業地域、その二つを結ぶ地点にバスターミナルがある。バスターミナルからチョルテンを左に取り、衣類、雑貨、野菜や果物、敷物、靴屋などの小店舗が軒を並べる狭い坂道を登ると、大きな三叉路に出る。道に架かった真新しい高い門と巨大なマニ車（円筒の側面にマントラが刻まれ、回すことによりマントラを唱えたと同じ功徳があるチベット仏教の仏具）が市街地への入り口だ。ジープにトラック、軍用車両にバスやタクシーが、ひっきりなしに警笛を鳴らしながら、この三叉路に流れこんでくる。その周りを荷車を引く人たち、手にも頭にも大きな荷物を持った人たち、背負籠を背に、黒く長い外套スカートに三つ編みの長い髪のラダック女性たち、迷彩服を着たインド軍の軍人たち、赤いローブに片方の肩がむき出しの僧侶たち、バックパックを担いだ観光客が行き交う。

ここからバザールがある市街地中心まで行く道筋は、多くの機械や電気製品を扱う商店、建材屋、モダンなトイレや洗面台などを販売する店などが並んでいる。更に行くと、羊と思われる動物の下肢を吊るした肉屋や、種やコメなどの袋の口を開けた穀物商などが現れ、歩道部分が広くなって、穀物、果物や木の実、塩や香辛料の露天商が、様々な商品の入った袋の口を道路際に並べた背の低いテントの奥に座っている。これまで述べてきた商店は、ほとんどすべてがイスラム教徒のカシミール商人達の店である。

バザール

バザールに入ると、歩道にはラダックの女性たちの自家製野菜や果物の露店が20～30軒ほど並んでいる。露店といっても、歩道に座り、その前に広げた布の上に、エンドウ豆や人参、トマト、レタスやじゃがいもなどの季節の野菜と、アプリコットとりんごなどの果物に、生の牛乳などが並んでいる。皆同じ物を同じように並べて売っている。値段にも違いはない。それでも、早く売り切れる人とそうでない人との違いがあるようだ。その理由はよくわからないが、強いて言えば、場所に違いはあるかも知れない。例えば、観光客などは、バザールの端辺りでは、先になにか新しいものがあるかも知れないと思って、買い物は控えて先に進み、バザールの中ほどまで来ると、違いがないことに気づき、買い物をして、帰る。その結果、バザールの中ほどのほうが端より良く売れるというようなことだ。

車道部分は幅が広くなり、露店の野菜や果物を物色する観光客や地元の人びとは、その車道の端、露店の前を歩き、車は車道の真ん中を移動する。車や人に混じって、牛は自由に歩きたい所を歩く。

バザールに面した建物は、2階建てか3階建ての古い建物で、中に入っている店は、殆どが観光客相手のショールや民族衣装を売る土産物店や、インターネットカフェ、旅行代理店、チベットやラダックの仏具やアンティークの店ばかりである。それらの間に揚げパンや飲み物を売る食べ物屋や観光客用のレストランが混じっている。レーに一軒しかない酒屋は、それらに紛れて、表からは何を売っているのかはっきりしない佇まいだ。銀行の現金支払機の前には、観光客や軍人などの長い行列ができている。停電の合間に現金を払い出そうとする人たちだ。その長い列を尻目に、若いラダックの女性がさっさと割り込んでいく。ラダックの風習だと聞いた。
　　
バザールに沿って仏教寺院とモスクがある。モスク近くはイスラム教徒たちの食べ物屋やパニールチーズ・バター・ヨーグルトを売る店や竈でチャパティや丸いパンを焼いて売っているパン屋、仕立屋、食器や調理用品から農具まで売る店などが続く。カシミール産の野菜と果物だけを売る店が十軒ほど集まった小さな市場もある。バナナ、ブドウやナシ、メロンなど、バザールでは見られない果物も豊富だ。

Sven Hedinの撮った写真などを見ると(Hedin 1909)、このバザールのある通りは町の入口を示す大きな門が南端にあり、バザールは十メートルを超えるポプラの大木が列をなして作る木陰の下にあったようだ。バザールの通りからは、裏側の、今はチベット土産物店が大きなテントを構えている空き地や広場に抜ける道が沢山ある。隊商の馬や羊、山羊やヤクなどの通路の後だ。このバザールは隊商が行き来した古い時代の面影をほんの少し残しているのだ。

読経の響き

バザールの端にはレーのチョカン・ゴンパ＝仏教僧院がある。ラダックの民族衣装の女性たちや老人たちが次々と門の中に入って行く。中には大きなお堂が中心にあり、その前は広場と階段状に聴衆席が設けられている。広場は、順に座った人びとで已にぎっしりだ。整理役のラマ僧たちが行き来している。今日はティングスモガン・ゴンパ（Tingsmogang Gompa）に新しく建立されたストゥーパの開眼供養のためにラダックを訪れたリンポチェ＝生き仏が説教をするというので、人びとが集まってきているのだ。老人が聴衆の中心だが、多くの中年や若者も混じり、子供たちも多く居る。老人たちや女性達は伝統的な黒や濃い茶色の襟の高い上着に刺繍を施したベストという衣装に身を包んでいる。少数だが伝統的な帽子をかぶった老女たちもいる。マントラを唱えながら、数珠を爪繰ったり、小型のマニ車を膝の上で回したりしながら、リンポチェを待っている。

 

Figure 27 :レーの チョカン寺

　
やがて、通りに面した門にジープが到着し、5人ほどのラマ僧に囲まれてリンポチェがゴンパに入ってきた。周りの人に注意されないと、簡単に見落としてしまう普通の僧侶の恰好で、スタスタとお堂に入っていった。お堂の中で、リンポチェが席につき、僧侶たちが読経の準備ができると、拡声器からリンポチェの説教の声が聞こえてきた。聴衆の最前列の老人たちの中では五体投地礼をする人も出てきた。カタス（供物用のスカーフ）や花などをお供えする人びとがお堂の壇上に進んでいく。説教が終わると読経が始まり、リンポチェの読経の声が拡声器から聞こえだすと、僧侶たちも唱和する。柔らかい、ゆったりとした低い声での読経が、ゴンパ内だけでなく外にまで響き出す。

楊の木陰の道

バザールから王城の下の古い道を通り、モスクの前を横切って、家々が建込む中から、石垣に囲まれた麦畑と水路が爽やかに流れる曲りくねった狭い道を通って、郊外に抜け出る。騒音が次第に聞こえなくなり、風の爽やかさが肌で感じられるようになる。石垣や日干しレンガの2メートルほどの高さの塀に沿って、石と青草で端を固めた水路が流れ、こんもりした枝ぶりの楊の木が木陰の列を作っている。人びとが水路で洗濯などをしていたりする横を抜け、チョルテンや石仏の左を回って、ゲストハウスまで歩く。牛が寝ていたり、犬が屯していたり、ロバの群れを追っている人に出会ったりする。ロバたちは隙があれば逃げだしそうな様子だ。尻を叩かれ、叱咤されて、渋々人が行かせたい方向に移動していく。人びとはすれ違うとき、ジュレーと挨拶をする。ロバはジロリとこちらを見る。子供たちも気軽にジュレーと言ってくる。こちらも同じようにジュレーと応える。
　

Figure 28：レーの裏通り　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

犬達のこと

レーの町で、牛の次に目に付く動物は犬だ。インドでは、私達が周ったデリー（Delhi）でもアグラ（Agra）でもチャンディガル（Chandigarh）でも、どこにも多数の犬が居た。足が長く、胴はすっきりし、毛は短く、穏やかな細い顔立ちの犬達だ。彼らは飼い犬ではなく野犬だが、牛や猿と同じように、インド社会の中で己の居場所が確立されている、独立した社会的な存在である。人びとは犬を追い払ったりしない。犬達は自由に歩き回り、好きな場所で寝起きしている。それはレーでも同じだ。しかし、レーの場合、どうもそれは近年になって起こったことのようだ。古い記述を見ると、40年前には犬は僧院にしか居なかったようだ。（佐藤 1981 ）　ネパールでも犬は僧院にいたようである。（中沢）後に紹介するリキル村には犬は全くいなかった。

その犬達が存在感を持つのは夜だ。毎夜十時を過ぎ、人びとが寝静まると、様々な方角から犬達の遠吠えが聞こえてくる。たまには、遠吠えだけでなく、大騒ぎになって、追いかけたり逃げたり噛まれたり泣いたりが一～二時間も続いたりする。それらが完全に収まるのは、朝の2時3時で、稀に朝方まで続くこともある。そんな時、やれやれやっと収まったかと思う間もなくアザーンの声に起こされる。ISECのプログラムの説明の中に、耳栓を用意すると良いと書いてあったことを思い出した。

昼間、犬達は自由に歩きまわっているが、近くに来たときに撫でようとして手を出しても、彼らは怯えたり威嚇したりしない。あるとき近寄ってきた犬を、動物好きの息子がその頭をチョンチョンと触ってやると、その後、我々が行く方角に、あたかも我々の目的地を知っていて道案内をするかのように、先にたって歩いて行くのである。我々との距離が広がると、立ち止まって我々を待っているようで、我々が近づくとまた歩き出す。あまりに長い間我々の先導をするので、少し奇妙に思い出した頃、すっと横道に入って行ってしまった。レーの不思議な犬だった。  
  

Figure 29: 

Figure 30：不思議な犬の後に従う我ら二人

こういう犬達の存在が観光業に与える悪影響を考慮したり、ヨーロッパを中心とする動物愛護精神の観点から、犬達を捕まえて、避妊手術を施したりする市民団体もある。しかし、犬達が僧院の外で生きて行けるのは、生ゴミなど十分な食料が町の中にあるからだと思われる。その生ゴミなどを出すのがレストランやゲストハウスなどの観光業なのだから、いかにも人間は身勝手だと思わざるを得ない。

さて、数日が経ち、レーの町にも慣れた頃、我々　LFL　(Learning from Ladakh)　参加者人は、三日間ISECのオリエンテーションを受け、そののち、八月初旬からリキル村の９軒の農家での生活を始めることになった。

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Acquiring a verified Coinpayments account is an excellent way to ensure smooth cryptocurrency transactions.
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The Antminer D9 (1770Gh) by Bitmain is an efficient and powerful miner ideal for
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Buying a verified Crypto.com account has become an increasingly popular option for crypto enthusiasts.
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The Antminer D9 (1770Gh), developed by Bitmain, is a great option for crypto miners.

Equipped with a hash rate of 1770 Gh/s, it efficiently mines various cryptocurrencies.
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by Jonas (2023-11-19 15:07) 

The Antminer S21 is a highly sought-after cryptocurrency miner.
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by Kellye (2023-11-19 15:12) 

The Antminer S21 is a powerful Bitcoin miner that offers 200 terahashes
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